Cetus3d z banding1/1/2024 ![]() By doing so, my Z height calibration was quite different when leveling cold vs leveling with the bed warmed up. ![]() It was not terribly stable so I added a polycarbonate piece to make it more planar and stable. My self-build I had use C channel to support the bedplate. Now, from my personal experience with my self-build, you are absolutely correct that heat expansion during bed warm up changes the Z height to some degree. It would be nice if you could tell us which you have, makes all the difference. I have no idea if they were only shipping aluminum Z table bracket at this time or if they still shipped some ABS Z tables. I will put in some experience on this: First thing to know is you have an SD3 with Sang board. (shameless plug for my other thread).please help me figure out how to autotune my bed? I think a good test of this would be to print a square or pyramidal shape of significant size without small perimeter slow-down and see if the banding gradually reduces distance between the bands up the shape since layers would be printed at a faster rate but the bed temperature fluctuations would most likely occur at the same regular time intervals. This would also explain why my z-banding is unusually regular after I made my own anti-backlash parts (I'll post more details of these parts later if anyone is interested).ġ - tune the bed to be as regular in temperature as possible (what I was trying to do and still can't figure out - see my other thread)Ģ - use a bed with a very low thermal expansion coefficientģ - dynamically offset in host software based on current bed temperature - only if 1 and 2 can't be achieved It took me a minute to realize that the picture sequence is an extruder reflecting off of a printing bed. It shows that some Z-banding issues can be caused by the slight expansion of the bed going through heating cycles. Oh and some people might be put off by the lack of customisation available in the software, but when I'm printing at home I want it to just work and the Cetus does everything I need it to do.Īnyway, I hope that was informative and if you're in the market for your first 3D printer on a tight budget, you could do a lot worse that the little Cetus! If you have any other questions regarding the printer, or have had different results to me, please let me know in the comments below.I was looking around for help on my bed autotuning problems ( ) and found this thread ( … -t129.html) very interesting. It can be a little noisy when on, the print volume isn't as big as some similarly priced machines and it really prefers to print on rafts. In the interest of fairness I do have to come up with some downsides, so here I go. You can even get a heated print bed attachment if you wanted to print more exotic materials such as ABS. ![]() The Cetus is almost a plug-and-play printer, with the machine optimised for the software that comes with it, making it almost foolproof to get excellent results. The Creality CR10 is loved by a lot of people but the size of it really put me off. Starting at $299 for the standard size or $399 for the version with extended height, this printer in my opinion is one of the best budget printers out there right now. With a printer in this price bracket, you can't really expect a self leveling bed akin the the one found on the Prusa MK3 which costs roughly four times as much! Saying that, it is a fairly simple process, requiring only a piece of paper and a little bit of patience Moving onto bed leveling, the Cetus handles it all in the software. The print surface itself is coated with some sort of top secret material which so far has been providing excellent bed adhesion and I have had if I remember correctly only one print where the model came off the bed whilst print and that was more due to me getting cocky and not cleaning the bed or checking the leveling for ages. The printer is of a cantilever arm design, which has its drawbacks in that it can suffer from vibration which gets worse as the heavy print head moves to the end of the arm, however I really have had very little issues with Z banding or ghosting whilst printing objects on that side of the print bed. Melted Extrusion Modeling (MEM) (or FDM to you and me) ![]() The company is based in China, but all of the best budget 3D Printers seem to be coming out of China and the limited contact I have had with their customer service has been exemplary. As you can see from the photo above, this is truly a desktop printer, with a really neat little form factor that focuses on function over looking particularly pretty which I really like.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply.AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |